Models complement drawings as a communication tool. They enable designers to work out and visualise their ideas in 3D before committing to a design. They also enable clients to gain an instant 3D overview of a building/space and understand the design intent. It is also possible to add lighting and take pictures of models to create realistic snapshots of areas within a space.
| About models | Equipment and Materials | How to cut boards | How to dispose of blades |
About
models
Models are divided into two main categories : the sketch/concept
(sometimes also called study) model and the presentation model.
The sketch/study model enables you to study, visualise and understand the space in 3D because it looks more real than pen and paper sketches. These models are made of cheap materials and help you work out your design ideas. They are only used during the initial phase of study.
Presentation models can be made of a variety of materials which you choose for their suitability to represent the objects, materials, colours and textures of your design. Although some materials such as balsa wood or foam board are widely used, it is always possible to experiment with new ones.
As a general rule, think of your models as symbols of real buildings, spaces or objects and the manner in which the model is crafted should not detract from the design.
All models are built to a predetermined scale. As with measured drawings, the level of realism depends on the scale. For example, a model at scale 1:5 should display a lot more details that a model at scale 1:50.
It is also best practice to include a support for the model, either in the form of a single piece of board or a box. It will keep it sturdy and makes it easier to carry and view at different angles.
Finally, it is important to remember to view and rotate the model at an eye level similar to the one the space would be viewed in reality. Only looking at a model from the top is unrealistic because you would not see the space that way in real life.
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Models should be Clean, Precise and Accurate. |
Equipment: this is a list of the most commonly used equipment. You may find other items useful.
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Materials: there is a variety of boards with different thicknesses available. You may also find specialist papers useful.
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Drafting tools: scale ruler, square set, protractor, compass, templates, curves, etc.
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Foam board |
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Balsa Wood |
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Cork |
Stanley knife
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Thin white card |
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White and coloured cards |
| Scissors
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Acetate |
A small plastic triangle can be useful to level straight angles accurately
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Corrugated cardboard |
White glue for paper. Stronger glue for other materials
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Canson paper |
Masking tape
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Specialist papers |
Spray mount
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Double sided tape
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Straight pins and small clips can be useful to attach parts when glue is setting
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Small pliers (jewellery pliers are quite good)
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Modelling saw, Sandpaper
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Paint, spray paint
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Tweezers, thread, cloth, plasticine, scaled figures, clear and coloured acrylic, mirrors, wire, wire mesh, cotton wool, etc |
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How
to cut boards
Always use clean and sharp blades and a metal ruler otherwise
the cuts will be messy and uneven. It is also best to use
a self healing mat. Not only it will protect the surface underneath
but also your blades will last longer.
Use a Stanley knife for medium to heavy duty materials and
straight lines and a scalpel for lighter materials, lines
and curves. There are different opinions on how much pressure
to apply. Some prefer to apply strong pressure and cut the
board in one pass. Others prefer to apply light to medium
pressure and use more than one pass to cut the board.
The danger when cutting is to deviate and damage the board
or worst, cut your finger. I recommend that you carefully
experiment with either method and find which one is best for
you and the material you are using.
Use the back of a scalpel or scissor blades to score boards
or cards. Scoring is making a mark on the board, card or paper
or partially cutting through in order to fold it. Do not apply
too firm pressure or you will cut all the way through.
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How
to dispose of blades
Carefully and safely! Take great care not to cut yourself
when changing a blade and either wrapt the old one back into
its original packaging or in masking tape.
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 Communication |
> Mood and Sample boards > Sketching > Isometric and Axonometric Projections > Perspective Drawing > Model Making > Figure Drawing
> Colour Rendering
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